Aleppo

Coke with ice plus too many desserts equals an upset stomach. The more places I go to – the more they look deceptively like home. So guard comes down …. And bacteria do not know they are “the same”. Sharif claims that Syrians have leather stomachs while foreigners have stomachs made of silk. I’m sure Sharif would get just as sick in the U.S. but it isn’t worth bringing up.
Go about visiting sights. St Simeon’s Church (now in ruins). He was an ascetic saint who decided to spend hi life atop a pillar. Or a monkey who threw feces from a pillar – according to Mark. End up at another Museum. Syria has not cured my distaste for museums. More old coins, jewelry, vases and broken statues. By now I could give the tour – even though I only half listened in Damascus. The old maps are interesting – the evolution of perceptions; the amazing accuracy without the benefit of the view from Space. Sharif is less adamant that we stay together so I wonder off a bit. Jackie stayed outside because she was not feeling well. Was tempted to stay with her but did not want to lie. We leave the Museum and go back to the Hotel. Traffic is so bad that walking to lunch will be faster. I try to talk Mark into playing hookie but he does not bite. We have lunch at a Hotel in an old building. It is beautiful, guess I am glad I came. I order some rice – and get a huge plate. Sharif’s Mom is guiding a French tour and they eat at the same Restaurant. Sharif is clearly a Mommy’s boy and despite his complaints about smoking he joins her in a cigarette. Syria has presumably passed anti smoking laws – but as long as a room is open (which as far as I can tell can simply mean an open window) people puff away.
We go to the Citadel after lunch. The building itself is impressive – but Sharif’s explanations are now bordering on annoying. The horse’s stable, the baths, the mosque ….. The view of the city is impressive – and Sharif shows us our Hotel. Just round the corner. As long as you can negotiate the twists and turns and the death defying traffic ….. See some kids carrying a small kitten. Hard to tell if it is a pet or dinner. Hopefully the former. Have seen very few pets …. Miss seeing dogs being walked.
Off into the souk we go. Unlike other Middle Eastern counties – we have not really been take to shops “just to look”. We stop at the soap shop (Syria is apparently known for handmade soaps and Aleppo is the mecca of soap making). I get one bar of soap for about $2 – presumably lavender although it just smells like soap to me. Carryon luggage is great insurance against souvenir buying.
We then visit the soap making factory – which is interesting and a welcome respite from castles and ruins. Then some other shops. The former RAF pilot decided to walk back and I talk Mark into following. He was flying in Kuwait in the 60s – so he must be 70. But in amazing shape – we struggle to keep up with him along with his wife. Cars are actually driving through the souk. Can’t think about it – just press on,. The RAF fellow has a map which he consults from time to time. We climb some steps and have a look – then come down and run into the fellow that used to work pharmaceuticals and knows Northern Virginia well. We walk a bit more and voila – we are by the hotel. We go off to the beer shop and managed not to get run over.
Another “authentic” dinner – the same as all the other ones. And off to bed – on to Beirut tomorrow.