Halloween

And what a gorgeous one. Perfect weather -- just a little bit cool and perfectly clear. A Friday so I do not think we have had as many trick or treaters as usual. It was Wesley's (Presley's brother) first Halloween. He was soooo cute in a giraffe custom -- and his grand parents were here to take him around with his Mom. We had gotten him and Michael Anthony "Bears in the Night" by Dr. Seuss. Michael Anthony did not come by -- but Wesley's visit was a treat :-)

It is 8:30 PM and I still have two big bags of candy plus half a bowl. I think I've given away about 14 bags. Between 3-5 pieces each. Most of the Hispanic kids that come by (in droves) are afraid of Sydney and his friend Carter who is visiting because his Mom and Dad went to a concert. Carter is just six months -- he is fearless and tries to run out and lick everyone. Carter is a Cavalier - Bichon Frise mix (a Cavachon). He is ultra cute ... but not as cute and luxurious as a Cavalier. Some of the kids will not come up because these little 15 pound dogs are at the door.

Sydney is wearing his pumpkin custom from last year (Lynn gave it to him). Still fits him so maybe he has not gained all the weight I thought he had gained while we were in Africa. Sydney does not quite know what to make of Carter ... he enjoys playing with him ... but he is also annoyed by him :-). Sydney won't go to the door to see the kids ... but gets jealous when Mark holds Carter to keep Carter from running out with the kids. Sometimes Sydney can be so shy. Unless someone is afraid of him ... then he jumps all over them!

It is 8:45 now and just had a bunch more kids so I may be dipping into my next to last bag. Visiting Pittsburgh tomorrow (meeting Maggie there) so was planning on taking the extra candy to Anthony. Bought him a box -- so he'll be fine. And Maggie is bringing him her extra candy.

Have not seen Anthony since August -- over two months. And he'll be home for Thanksgiving in just three weeks -- I am excited about that as well. Cam is supposed to come too but has not let me know his plans.

Today was my last day as Chief Scientist for a few months. Come Monday I will be Acting Deputy Assistant Administrator ... not a very impressive job title ...... but hey it should be entertaining. Just for about 3 months ... filling in while we wait for a political appointee Assistant Administrator. Then Nancy the permanent Deputy goes back to her job. And the Acting Chief Scientists goes back to his. And I go back to mine. Musical chairs :-). I was Acting Director most of the week .... somehow I don't think I will be getting an Oscar. I hope I do OK at this job ... it is very different than anything I have ever done. But I will think about that on Monday ... right now I am excited about going to Pittsburgh. Have to pack and bathe Sydney ... but waiting to see of more trick or treaters come. Guess I better get a move on ... have to take Carter home and put him in his crate. Not looking forward to that :-(

Hopkins Day -- All was OK

Today was my semi-annual visit to Hopkins -- for "in-depth" breast cancer screening. Everything was fine -- just a lot of stress as usual. This is just the visit to the nurse -- which three months after a visit to my Doctor might have been overkill. Plus now I have six months till the next visit ......

My appointment was at 10:30 in Baltimore. Left the house at 8:30 and the GPS noted a 9:40 arrival. After all the traffic got there at 10:25. The parking lot was not in operation. The traffic cop tried to stop me -- and I drove right past her. I attribute it to the Africa effect -- ignoring law enforcement. In reality they had valet parking so she had no reason to hassle me -- was probably just bored.

Got to the waiting room just in time -- but of course a basket case -- not aided by the desire to just skip the visit. Connie the nurse came out at about 10:45 -- but was running late and had someone ahead of me. Saw her at 11. Spent 15 minutes with her -- less than 5 on the exam itself. I think she spent the majority of the time assessing my mental health. I would give anything to read what she writes in my file. Anyhow I told her about Africa -- and to prove my sanity I told her how when the canoe almost capsized in the crocodile infested river I thought to myself "oh, good, I will not have to worry about breast cancer". In retrospect perhaps this was not the optimum way to convey sanity. When we finally got down to the business at hand everything was fine (at least the physical part -- she is not sharing her mental assessments -- though she has said my concern is justified). Have to go back in six months (early May) for "the works". The American Cancer Society recommends MRIs as an additional screening tool for people with higher than 20% life time risk (I am at 25% -- which I realize means 1 in 4 chances -- but it is hard to treat it as anything other than 100%). MRIs have lots of false positives so I guess I am in for a ride. But on the other hand the earlier the better (in this case the worse the better does not apply). I hope Mark plans well and is here May 6. The trouble with your husband having breast cancer is that he thinks you should react to it like he did -- like an inconvenience to get beyond. To me it is much more than that -- it is the memory of my Mother and the experience of my Sister. I can't even let myself go back to my Mother's room -- have to think of something else. I guess we have 180 days to "discuss" .....

On the drive home realized I had forgotten to eat ... so I had to stop and get something. Had thought to go back to work -- but that's not too realistic after this experience. Hiking 8 hours in the Central African Republic rain forest is like a Spa Day compared to the Hopkins experience. It took me until 10 PM to do the "must do work" for the day. I have got to get a grip on this subject ... I am driving myself bonkers.

Mark is back from Florida. Still trying to book Greenland but went ahead and got tickets to Copenhagen. Enlisted Jessica to help. Signed up for Skype. Ate dinner, packed lunch, walked the dog. A "routine" end to a very trying day -- and I am very thankful for it as I certainly would not want to be experiencing the alternative ........ I think I will go have a bubble bath -- lavender sounds good

Next Year's Holidays

Just got done sorta booking next year's holidays. No Africa! Was tempted by Akos' Madagascar --with Comoros (gasp) extension :-). Also thought about Mauritius (which seems to have OK infrastructure) ... but good sense prevailed. Africa is just not an every year sorta place ... you need to forget the hassle and just remember the awe :-)

Was booked to go to Columbia already in January. Have flights and everything. Booked Kuwait for April .... "free" flights with BA (their taxes are huge .... over $600 each for economy :-(). Booked the Hilton resort ... which looks awesome. Probably will try to go to New Orleans Memorial Day ... but only if we can take Sydney! Looks as if there are free tickets available.

Trying to work on booking Greenland. Found a five day tour from Copenhagen. Got free (much freer -- just $120 in taxes for business) flights on hold and just have to hear back from the British company. Also found hotels for the extra days in Copenhagen but can wait to book those. Hope they respond as the flights are only held till Wednesday. And then was able to exchange our RCI week for a week in Guadeloupe in Oct-Nov.

Also gonna try to visit Terry in Oregon (maybe Labor Day?) and of course I will go to Dayton at some point. All I can say is I am following Dr. Bonnie's advice of booking many holidays ahead. I don't even know Dr. Bonnie -- just hear about her advice all the time. It is so nice to be able to do all this yourself ... and know that some military officer can't just take your stuff like in Africa .....

Did a count of countries/territories left to visit. Have been to 132 countries/territories -- per www.infoplease.com. Still have to go to 88 countries and 47 territories ... so God willing I will get to the half way point next year. Going to 4 new places a year would mean some 33 years .... hard to hit multiple places anymore as visa requirements/travel conditions are getting harder. But I am sure there is a way .....

Beautiful day today. Went to church last night so having a hard time getting out of my PJs. Did take the dogs for a walk after all the bookings. It is almost addictive ... sometimes I wish I was a travel agent. Have to finish laundry, get Halloween candy and I want to get the Warren Buffet bio so I can read about Sharon. Mark is at work ... he cannot seem to get stuff done at home. Hope he gets engaged in vacation planning 'cause he'll be mad when stuff goes wrong (or if stuff goes wrong ..... need to get him to subscribe to "The Worse the Better" ... almost a new "Hakuna Matata").

A New Haircut (Just like the old one :-))

Ahhhh, normalcy. Got up reasonably late (around 9 AM -- except I also got up at 2 AM because Roma -- whom we are babysitting -- decided he needed to go outside). Mark made me a normal breakfast. And then went to Elizabeth Arden for a mani, freshening my color and a hair cut. I was telling Heather and Tulip about Africa -- like everyone else they reacted like I was nuts. And Tulip is from Cairo! Nice to have "city" hair again -- somehow I could not get the grime of Africa off myself. Went to Starbucks (for the first time in weeks!). Picked up my dry cleaning. Managed to salvage a couple of the things Hotel Saphir ruined. Not some others. I guess they will become "disposables" for Columbia :-).

Started looking into next year's vacations last night. Akos is having a Madagascar special -- 150 Euros off to try to fill his last 4 spots. The trip sounds awesome and surely Air Madagascar is better then Air Congo :-). The hotels seem good ...... But it would take over two weeks .... in March .. which is not in the cards :-( Besides I HAVE got to learn my lesson and not jump back in -- Mark was telling me he was amazed by my rapid bounce back. One minute asking Houeida to call our Congressman to rescue me and the next ready to jump in again.

I think we are settling on Mauritius in April; Greenland in July or early August; quick trips to New Orleans and Oregon to visit Mark's family and Terry; and then maybe something in October in our Hemisphere -- like Belize or one of the couple islands we still have to visit. Maybe it is too much -- given the economy. But as I read somewhere today -- shrouds don't have pockets :-).

Mark thinks we are headed toward a ''30s style depression. Sharon certainly put it in context with the '87 and '97 "crashes" -- this is bad but not quite as bad because of the safety triggers. Glad to know someone that knows something about money :-).

Have tons of work to catch up on ... but I still feel soooo tired. Probably better to have a rest and be bright eyed and bushy tailed next week :-). Have dentist and Hopkins check next week as well -- the latter always extremely trying ...... Just the clinical this time. Maybe I'll have a little nap now and work on laundry and vacation planning later. "Normalcy" feels nice :-)!

Home Almost a Week

Been home almost a week. Well, sort of home -- I left for Chicago on Tuesday. Go home tomorrow (Friday) -- God willing. No Air Congo shenanigans -- just the possibility of snow in Chicago.

Tomorrow is my last day of malarone (malaria pill). It is driving me nuts -- the upset stomach; the weird dreams; the general "out to lunch" feeling. Funny how quickly that "glad to be alive" feeling dissipates. I've told different bits of the experience to folks in Chicago this week -- it seems surreal -- the more time that passes the more it feels like something I read in a book.

Going to start a rotation on "the 10th floor" November 3rd. My job title is ludicrous -- the sort of thing that only happens in Washington. Acting Deputy Assistant Administrator for ........ I am a bit scared .... has been a while since I didn't know exactly what I was doing. On the other hand I am looking forward to that feeling of learning something new every day. And it is temporary. I will miss my regular job -- and the folks I work with every day. And I will miss Carl -- he should be a "last boss" -- because no one could possibly compare. The good news is that the experience surely will not be as bad as the 17 hours in the canoe with the crocodiles. Then again dealing with LF in Montreal was a 1000 times worse than the canoe and crocodiles.

Watched survivor Gabon tonight. Ha, Gabon is for sissies. Call me when you've done "Survivor, Central African Republic." A small part of me does miss Africa .... even the mice. The "Worse the Better" :-)

Looking forward to tomorrow. Interesting conference, no speaking role, and then home. And I should not have to get on a plane until we go to Columbia in late January! Will visit Anthony 1 November -- but plan to drive. Maggie should come as well -- looking forward to seeing her .....

Back Home

Still cannot believe the series of miracles that took us from the Doli Lodge in Central African Republic -- 6 hours on the river -- Bombassa -- 5 hours on the river -- Ouesso -- mad dash for Air Congo -- Brazzaville -- safely into Air France in a bit over 30 hours. God really worked wonders.

Another small miracle -- the gate in Frankfurt is close to the arrival gate so no more checks. Get to go to the Lufthansa lounge (with Sharon). Even though I ate breakfast on the flight (the joys of the moist towel and the cereal with milk!) I eat some more -- and proceed to get sick. But that's OK.

Saying goodbye to Sharon is really hard -- now the group is really apart -- and I was closest to her. I do hope I see her again ..... and Claire. And Jessica .... And the others. Actually feel sad.

We are not in Economy Plus like we were supposed to be on United -- they changed our seats even though we are both Gold members -- but that's OK -- we are almost home -- just 9 hours in a comfortable plane with no crocodiles anywhere nearby!

We land in IAD and marvel at how long we have gone since being asked for a bribe. I want to hug the TSA agents -- but think better of it. I enjoy watching luggage delivery -- it is so orderly. The taxi with its meter is awesome -- and then I talk to Lynn's Mom and find out Sydney is back at our house. Seeing him is incredible -- how I missed him. He does not play coy -- I have never seen a happier dog. It is good to be home -- thank you God!

Would I do this again? Probably not any time soon -- I see Greenland in next year's itinerary ... although we are also thinking about Mauritius. And Colombia is all set for January :-).

Having said that -- I do not think anyone but Akos (and Jessica -- in photo) could have done this. There is no end to the man's patience and ability to see good in any situation (he has after all been arrested 7 times -- once in his native Hungary for an actual petty crime and six times -- he thinks -- in Africa to shake him down for money -- and still he has faith in eco tourism and the good we can do for Africa). I learned I have a depth of inner resources to withstand discomfort, fear, danger, etc. that I would have thought impossible three weeks ago. I hope I am nicer and more appreciative of what we have. And we met some very interesting people at least some of which I hope will become life long friends. And like Carl said -- with time this will become a family legend

Will I travel again with Akos and Jessica? Probably -- but just not next year :-) Would I recommend them? ABSOLUTELY -- they certainly know how to provide a ride :-).

Mark asked me if I have learned a lesson (yes, I did talk him into this -- but he went willingly) and quenched any thirst for adventure? In Brazzaville I would have said absolutely. In Alexandria ... I am not too sure :-)

Back to Paris

Arrived in Paris at around 6:30 AM. Would kiss the ground if I was outside. The passport control process is heavenly – an orderly line – the Congolese “elite” ha to wait along with everyone else. The cleanliness and professional behavior is almost dazzling. The airport is crowded but it feels like we are alone.

The process of saying goodbye starts. Spyros hurries off (he went to DRC while we did Central Africa -- says it makes Brazzaville seem like Paris). Then goodbye Laurie and Bjarne who just had carry on. Then Andy (Andras). Jessica, Sharon, Mark and I are together. Sanya and Akos (and then Claire) go on the shorter UK line – so we say goodbye. We of course all meet again at luggage. And say goodbye again to Jessica and Sanya. Claire, Sharon, Mark and I go off to Terminal 1 so we go together. I love the little train – so efficient! Say goodbye to Claire – who will be home eating lunch in Dublin while we are en route to the USA. I will miss Claire – her sunny personality and mischievousness. I can feel the tears starting to come.

Sharon, Mark and I go to Lufthansa. Sharon is able to switch to our flight so we will be together a bit longer. We see Akos and Jessica again – and say goodbye again :-).

We go through security with lots of forgotten “emergency” water bottles (which the Africans did not care about). They all get thrown away …. It does not matter.

Somehow our free tickets were in business class for the Lufthansa leg to Frankfurt so we get breakfast vouchers. The chocolate croissant and cappuccino (same meal as on 30 September) never tasted so good. I keep using the bathroom – it is so clean. I brush my teeth with tap water for the first time in weeks – feels so good. Everything feels so good – like seeing the West and all its marvels with fresh eyes. This feeling alone is worth the price of the trip! Amazingly we see Akos again (he is going to Munich). Another goodbye. And finally off to Frankfurt (and the lounge -- here I am with Sharon) … another step closer to home!

The Farewell “Lunch” and Goodbye Brazzaville

On the original itinerary we were supposed to have a nice farewell dinner with champagne at the Hotel Olympic in Brazzaville. Plan B was for Jessica to work with the cook at Bombassa and have a farewell dinner there. Plan C was a farewell lunch in Brazzaville. Plan D became a lunch/dinner at the Lebanese Restaurant (fourth visit) in Brazzaville. It is always good to have multiple plans in Africa – not the place for the inflexible and those that crave routine.

On the airplane I was focused on a shower. I could almost feel it. We are in a taxi with Sanya and Sharon. Sanya tells us that Akos’ plan is to get one day room for the four women, and have Andy and Bjarne use Spyros room for a day room. Mark and I can have the choice of splitting up – I join the four girls and he joins the guys – or waiting till Andy and Bjarne are done and using that room. I am pretty pissed (as is Sharon). After all we have been true, the least Akos can do is get us rooms. Sharon opts to pay for her own room (45 Euros). Mark refuses (I am always amazed at how he can make it through the most harrowing experiences – like cancer or several near death experiences in West Africa – and still have such an attachment to money. In a way I envy him – clearly he is not unsettled by these events in the way that I am.

I go to he girls room – third in the shower is not bad. Mark goes off to the guys room and we work out a system to repack. I get the bag we left behind – which was almost empty. Akos carries it and says it is as heavy as Spyros mysterious yellow bag. I think he is kidding but soon enough I discover he is not. The hotel has put the bag somewhere where everything got wet. So it is filled with wet books, papers and clothes – explaining the weight! Compared to everything else this is minor – but I was really fixated on clean clothes to go home. Luckily the travel clothes are just damp. I leave behind the most ruined things and Jessica yells at the staff and makes them dry my clothes (we later find out that Sanya and Sharon’s bags were also wet – only Claire and Laurie had dry stuff – because they used trash bags :-). My suede coat is a mess – but I have chilled (after seeing a depressing story on hunger on T.V.) and don’t care much anymore.

We manage to all be ready by 3:30 PM and off we go to the restaurant. We are all a sweaty mess again within five minutes. We act like a pack of wild elephants (have to leave by 5:30 PM) and rearrange the tables at the restaurant. Two local women look at us in horror. Jessica orders the food – and the ordering of drinks is sheer chaos. Jean Pierre comes; Jean Pierre goes. And he comes back again. Akos is trying to recap the trip. Jessica is working with the kitchen. One of our group members starts having issues and goes off. A wine glass breaks. Akos continues recapping – with people coming and moving food around. Akos is asking questions – which occasionally are answered. His memory is amazing – but he does miss some things – which I am only too happy to point out (at least I am listening). A cake comes (instead of the promised champagne). It is frozen (this is Africa). Jessica goes to find a microwave. The recap continues – we are now doing the last week. Akos is a master spinner – I wonder if we were on the same trip. But his spinning works somewhat and I am starting to see the adventure. I guess the difference between adventure and disaster is whether you survived or not – and we did survive. This feels almost like a movie scene ….. including the attempts to split the drinks costs ... which are a mess.

Take taxis to the hotel and collect the luggage. Jean Pierre does not want any glitches – he is stuck with the British group (he may also have one or two groups stuck elsewhere – which is bad but not as bad as when a boatman in Equatorial Guinea demanded double money not to throw Jean Pierre’s group into the sea …). He clearly does not need us under foot any more! We get to the airport. Not very crowded by Maya Maya standards. Jean Pierre says goodbye and we go through passport control. This is Africa – there is a problem. Even though we have e-tickets we cannot go to check in without a ticket. Akos goes back for Jean Pierre and off they go to Air France Office (which is mercifully opened). We are all scared – I cannot imagine being in Brazzaville till Monday or later. Jessica comes and goes – Akos comes by and says tickets are being printed. Feels like an eternity – but it is just a few minutes. Jean Pierre comes by the door and gives u the now familiar “wait – all will be OK signal. Akos returns and passes out the e-ticket receipts (how could it not have occurred to him to print them before leaving home?). We start the check in process – the second of what proves to be 12 checks of the passports.

During check in military guys walk in and just go to the front of the line. I take perverse pleasure in knowing the rude awakening they will have in Paris -- they will have to wait along with everyone. They are fat – the privileged classes are fat in Africa because they eat so much. I really do not like the “privileged” Congolese – there is something depraved about them. Every step takes us closer to the Air France flight – including the luggage check (yes, we will find many bombs by hand). After luggage check there is another stamping of passports (even though there was one just before). The purpose of this checkpoint seems to be asking for money – unbelievably the officials ask every person for money. Mark says “I am American – I am not allowed and gets through”. They ask him for beer money (on the job!!!). I say “that tall guy, my husband, took all my money” (which was true). No one from group gives them any money but later we see about half the people do. This is Africa.

The waiting lounge is actually air conditioned and has a bar. We sit at a table and the barman hurriedly makes a “Reserved” sign for another so we know another fat VIP is coming. Nothing much happens – we are getting closer. We do need to use head lamps to use the toilet (at the international airport!). And of course our own toilet paper.

Boarding takes forever – but I feel myself relax with each step. There is luggage on the tarmac. Others look to see if it is theirs – but I do not care. I am glad to leave anything and everything behind (well other than my Blackberry). On the plane I use the toilet – it is amazing what delight I suddenly have in soap and toilet paper and just general cleanliness. I am actually looking forward to sleeping on the flight – after two nights sleeping in a canoe …. The plane finally takes off – Goodbye (and Good Riddance!) Brazzaville ………. I seriously doubt we will meet again.

Out of Ouesso – the mad Dash for Air Congo

We leave the “dock” (after handing our passports to Jean-Pierre for stamps—we had done yet another illegal border crossing). Take taxis to a local hotel (it is actually quite nice – with air conditioning and clean floors – and their own mini-van). The idea is to have breakfast and wait for Jean-Pierre to come back with passports and boarding passes.

I had a new “problem” – my monthly visitor had unexpectedly arrived during the hike back from Dzangha Bai (one week early courtesy of the stress). I had a couple of items and scrounged some more from Claire and Jessica – enough for the trip back to Ouesso. Laurie goes for a walk every morning – no matter what (the energy is unbelievable). So she takes off for her walk in this very small town with a mission – finding me some supplies. Which she actually does (amazing!). For only $2. I am now feeling confident that the miracles throughout the night will continue and we will get out.

Someone comes back and reports that there is a window between the men’s and women’s toilet so a man standing up looks into the women’s room. I don’t see how this matters after using the bush for a toilet J. And it is a toilet – with a sink and toilet paper –and no mice – just one bug. My standards have clearly altered.

Jean-Pierre returns and looks really angry so we are all concerned. He tells us we are OK – the plane has taken off from Brazzaville and he has our passports and boarding passes. The problem is the military commandeered a bunch of the seats on the in bound flight. So his group of British tourists lost their seats (not clear how –apparently his assistant Frank went to the airport late – but that hardly matters – the military can bounce you even if you are sitting on the plane). He tells us to relax – we will leave at 10 AM.

There is some relief all around – but also worry about the concept of commandeered seats. We take off in the hotel mini-van at 10 AM and are at the airport by 10:10 AM. We go to “the lounge” (some bar with a couple of tables. It is very, very hot. There are bands, folks in traditional dress dancing. Someone important is clearly on the plane. There is an election so maybe the President. Not that it will matter – I am sure the President will win – everything is just too corrupt. I am feeling dizzy – the stress, the heat, who knows, could be a number of things. Akos is occasionally dancing (the man can handle stress amazingly well).

Sanya starts looking at her passport stamps and points out an issue with one of the Central African Republic (or maybe Congo) stamps. The rest of us don’t care – we just want on that flight. But Akos and Jessica go to check it out and everyone starts moving toward the plane so we freak out. Jean Pierre eventually tells them it is not an issue—get to boarding.

We get set for the race to the Air Congo aircraft. People have come out of nowhere and it is hard to tell who is flying and who is saying goodbye (we are just on a field). The dignitaries get off. The ground personnel (hard to tell who IS Air Congo ground personnel and who is there just to get bribes) are keeping people back – but letting some through. We are at the front pushing and eventually make it through. I stand behind Akos – I am getting on that plane. Mark is hanging back – but I figure if I get on Akos and Jessica will get him on somehow – we just have to be on this flight or we will have to wait till Monday – and then the military will be returning so we might miss that. More and more military and VIPs are taken to the front so we are really worried. It is a big aircraft but they tend to leave a bunch of seats empty (probably to collect more bribes by creating a boarding system with no certainty – these folks are sick). Amazingly we see “The Man in the Pink Suit” again – this time there are more important VIPs than he and he gets on later.

Jean-Pierre eventually bribes someone and after a while we all get on (there is no other way). They somehow have more people on board that boarding passes collected so they count and recount and recount. They stop bothering with us – it is clear who we are as we stick out of the crowd and have shown our boarding passes several times. The plane finally takes off – a sigh of relief. An hour flight – we even get a snack (by now we are actually craving airline food).

We get to Brazzaville but get put into a circling pattern. What on earth for – there is hardly any air traffic and the weather is fine. Start to freak out again – cannot imagine an Air Congo boarding again – all the pushing and shoving and bribing. Plus Carl’s admonitions about h=the shoddy safety of African airlines is flashing through my mind – and it is hard to imagine a worse airline than Air Congo. Continue to pray. Finally hear the landing gear come down and we have a very smooth landing. The pilot turns out to be from California – maybe he has committed some crime and is doing community service.

We make it through baggage claim (not too bad – just a few quirks – like a belt that does not work – but no need to pay a bribe to be let out – and no one looks at out stamps for getting back into Congo from Central African Republic). We are a couple of hours late – but fine on time. Off we go back to Saphir Hotel one more (and hopefully LAST) time for showers. Our escape is getting closer ….

On to Ouesso

Wake up at 1:30 AM. No sign of the mouse in the bathroom. Folks are slow – but we do get loaded up. We hear thunder and see a lot of lightening – but none where we are at. Set off shortly past 2 AM (a miracle!). A bit over three hours till sunrise and the moon is bright. The motor turns off several time as we go – cannot tell if for gas or a problem.

We are making good time – but there are scares, pit stops. And a stop to return the borrowed paddle and fix a spark plug issue. Laurie gives away her sneaker to a very lucky local who happened to be standing by the shore (wonder what effect this will have on the villagers J)

Later found out we were steps away from having to use the 15 hp motor – which would have meant slowing down and possibly missing the flight. Once more we are en route and before too long we see Ouesso. I feel some relief as my Blackberry can work in Ouesso – so we can ask for help. Of course I am also relieved not to see camera crew on shore – as on Tuesday I had SMS Houieda and told her I needed rescuing – contact our Congressman! Also Carl -- but I think he is better at ignoring my drama.

We get off the boat – say goodbye and thank the boatmen (they had a much harder time – they had to work through the night). Decide to give away the umbrellas that we had bought Tuesday (Jessica’s idea – greatest move of the trip – protected you from rain, sun and wind – never go to Africa without one (which I hadn’t)). This created a near riot as we wanted the boatmen to have them but some locals took them.

The trip back to Bomassa – with a stop in Cameroon

I cannot believe we are back into the boat – barely 32 hours later. There are storms all around – I am praying for the same miracle as Tuesday night – we had storms on both sides of the river but not over the river. Boat (canoe) got stuck. Andy, Akos and Jessica get out to help push (they want out!).

The boatmen are annoyed by the umbrellas so they rearrange the chairs single file. We eat lunch – passing food back and forth – announcing “chicken going forward” or “cheese going back”. I find it amusing and for a while I forget our predicament.

Jean-Pierre and Akos point out Cameroon on the other side of the river. So we want to go over. The boatmen find a good spot for a “bush break” – and proceed to crash land (which they do a lot). We all get up – same sight for the locals – eleven white people descending upon your back yard (Laurie, me, Claire, Sanya in photo). So we get in 5 countries (or 6 – counting DRC).

Starts getting dark around 6 – fully dark by 6:30. No moon yet though the skies are clear. Seem to be making good time – then we get to the rapids. The boatmen all of the sudden make a sharp turn to shore – and nearly capsize the canoe. Mark wakes up in the middle of the maneuver but everyone else saw it coming and is terrified. Andy is the most calm – having told those near him – swim to shore and climb a tree (have to get away from the crocodiles). The good news is the rapids are close to Bombassa and soon enough we arrive.

I am surprised that we will have separate rooms (thought it was all bunk beds). Sanya, Laurie, Sharon and Claire do room together. Jessica and Akos and Mark and I share a hut with two rooms. Much nicer than I expected – but no bathroom – so I make sure not to drink a lot of water to avoid midnight walks. I go to the bathroom and see a mouse. I amaze myself – I do not jump or scream and the mouse settles himself on a pipe. He or she is almost cute.

Sharon does have to use the bathroom in the middle of the night (we went to bed shortly after 9 PM – with a planned 2 AM departure). She senses she is being followed –and feels a man is following her. She hears Jean-Pierre whispering but cannot make out what’s being said. It turns out he was saying “run” as an elephant was behind the bathroom! We finally have an elephant visit the camp – and no one is hurt – so all is good.
C

Pygmies and the Dzangha Bai

Had a good night’s sleep. Prayed in that way that one gets to when it is obvious you are in waaay over your head and the only way to make it through is to remember the prayer Bev gave me when I was in England – “Lord, help me to remember that nothing is going to happen to me today that You and I can’t handle together.” I wish I could talk to Bev – but I know Carl is praying we get out of here alive – and I truly believe Jesus’ promise that he would answer the prayers of two or more ….

Our group plans a 7:15 AM start. I am up by 5:30 AM (to pack for the trip back to Brazzaville – via Ouesso) – the lights eventually do come on (ahhh – how we miss the relative order of Gabon – where there was a published schedule for electricity ….). Meet Akos on the way to breakfast – Jessica has gone with the gorilla group and Akos will come with us to make sure we are on time. Spirits are much improved after sleep – and Mark admits the hike almost killed him – but as he put it he was not going to let two old people (me and Andy) do something he could not do. He is nuts but at least a realist!

As we are not doing the hunt we do not need gifts for the BaAka pygmies (the group the day before did take gifts as the pygmies were putting on a show – funny Akos thought the experience was not that great while Jessica loved it). The pygmies are interesting – such a simple way of life – in dirt huts. But they do not seem unhappy – there is a school, a church. The children are so cute – they love posing for photos and being shown their images. The adults do not seem small to me – I am taller but do not tower over them the way Mark towers over me. I refer to the Village as “The Normal Sized People” Village – and Claire and Sharon agree. We are right on time (Akos, Jessica and Jean-Pierre have talked to everyone – determined to overcome “Africa time”).

We drive to the Dzangha Bai – a 45 minute hike (some through water and elephant dung – which does not bother me – cleanliness is a long forgotten thing – I have never showered so often and yet been so dirty). But now “The Worse the Better” comes true – what a sight (Akos, Sharon, Claire and Bjarne having a look). Tons of elephants and the elusive sitatunga (I do not think it is rare – it has just been rare to us). The bugs are better and hI ave learned to coexist with the millions of butterflies. No longer jump when they land on me. We leave at 11 AM – in the car after 45 minutes of hiking. Once again hear a gorilla next to the road – I guess you cannot control habituation that much – if they are comfy with people in the forest – I guess they can be comfy on the road. The worry now is the gorilla group (Jessica, Sanya, Laurie).

No sign of the other group at camp – we are all sitting around anxious to go. They eventually show up – with another “fantastic tale” – they hiked and hiked and finally Jessica told the guide to turn around. He kept going deeper and she grew more desperate. Finally she got through to him and as they turned back they saw the gorillas. They got 5 minutes – but at least saw them. We get packed up – and after some struggle to release the boat (Akos, Jessica and Andy jumped in to help—to the horror of the locals who worried they would fall in (steep drop) and of course the crocodiles). We are off by 2:20 PM (which I never would have thought possible ….. for once the Africans were on time -- we were late!).

Visiting the Gorillas (aka death march in the jungle)

We get our rooms at Doli Lodge (not quite the stunning accommodation in Akos’ brochure – but it has a bathroom with hot water – which turns out to be a luxury – as only two rooms have hot water). Take about 15-20 minutes for breakfast (skip the shower – sure the gorillas won’t mind). Jean-Pierre tells me there is 100% chance of seeing the gorillas. I actually believe him.

The plan is the six gorilla trekkers will do the gorilla experience and meet the rest of the group (which is going on the Pygmy Hunt (where the pygmies hunt – not to hunt pygmies) at the Observation Platform -- Dzangha Bai: a huge opening in the forest, with saline soils where wildlife hangs out. That is where we will have a late lunch.

I am excited as we set out to see gorillas. Ride over rough roads for an hour and a half – Bjarne, Sharon and Claire take off and Andy, Mark and I hang out in the “satellite camp” until 11. I read the warnings – don’t do this unless you can out run an elephant or a buffalo. I doubt any one can outrun elephants and buffalo – and I am too tired to care. We are not travelling anywhere today – and I am no longer having trouble being in the present. I just cannot deal with tomorrow anymore. I pray all the time – I seriously doubt we will get out of here without some accident where someone is badly hurt or worse. By now I am determined to see gorillas – whatever it takes.

Our guide comes and off we go. I am first in line – Mark yells at me to stay with the guide. It is hard (he moves pretty fast) but doable as the ground is pretty flat and sandy. Ironically Mark is having a hard time keeping up – the guide is flying. I expect an hour and a half hike – so we should see Bjarne, Sharon and Claire by 11:45 AM. We go on and on – can’t even stop for a drink. Lots of water and mud to walk through. At about 12:15 PM see some western woman coming back with a guide. Keep walking and walking and walking. Our guide seems lost. Finally come across some other folks and we sit in the forest. Cannot communicate but they get across that we are waiting our turn and will get to see the gorillas at 1 PM (supposedly you cannot visit the gorillas after 2 PM – though I’m sure they are not wearing watches). We are attacked by the sting less bees – which are attracted to sweat. Really obnoxious as they like the salt and try to get into my eyes – which messes my contact. Mark looks positively awful – can hardly breathe and is really grouchy and yells at me. I am very worried about him. Finally we get to move to the gorillas

Mark is the first to spot two young gorillas. They are awesome but we only see their rear ends. I cannot believe this – but it seems par for the course for this trip. We see the other group. They tell us the gorillas kept moving and they had poor sightings (in terms of photos). They take off and we go in. Now we see gorillas!!! These guys are awesome. I squat on the ground to observe them. Scratching because of the bugs. The big silver back seems to be looking at me – and he mimics my movements I think. These guys are awesome – great sightings. Definitely the worse the better.

But of course “this is Africa”. So the guides decide to get closer and look and look for more. Andy gets some good video of a gorilla eating. He is one messy eater :-). I get slightly concerned – we are inside the 7 foot distance rule. But the gorillas are relaxed and this is awesome. Except when it isn’t. Biting ants and sting less bees are driving me nuts. Two o’clock comes and goes – the guides show no sign of ending this. Continue to walk and spot some more guys. Finally at 2:30 PM we all have had plenty of gorilla time and ask to go back. We hike back an hour and a half – get to the satellite camp by 4 PM and then back to Doli Lodge at 5:30 PM. I am worried about Mark – the hike seems to be doing him in. It really is feeling masochistic – I loved the gorillas but a 5 hour hike after a night in a canoe is probably a bit much. But we do not have a choice – timing will not work otherwise. Andy and I also note that we do not see any way to do two groups the next day and take off in time to get to Bomassa at a reasonable hour so we can rest and go on to Ouesso (for the all important flight back to Brazzaville – if we miss it the next one is Monday and then we will need new Air France flights – and Mark and I will have to get new tickets to the U.S. because we are on frequent miles tickets and the policy is if you miss a flight you are out of luck).

When we get back to Doli run into Sharon – who is locked out of her room. Find out that Bjarne passed out from dehydration. Like me and Andy, she is nervous about the plans for the next day. And she is concerned someone will get seriously hurt or killed (as am I). And of course we have had no food. We agree to try to talk to Akos and point out this is no longer even remotely fun. I take a shower and then go to the dining room. Claire, Bjarne, Andy and Sharon have ordered some food. I am not hungry but they talk me into ordering some food for me and Mark (no sign of the Sangha Bai group).

Mark joins us – and the other group returns (they worried about us – not realizing how long the gorilla hike really is). Offer Sharon the chance to take a hot shower in our room – which she clearly needs – we are all in sad shape. I no longer feel annoyed by the group – trying to survive the boat has made us closer (and me kinder).

We try to talk to Akos and Jessica about the timing, lack of food, insane schedule and the folks with medical issues (I am really worried about Mark – who brought no extra blood pressure medicine – I could kill him) Akos and Jessica do not seem to be listening at all – so we keep trying. Sharon must have talked to Akos separately because he does come back and we hold a meeting and he seems more sensible (particularly as the group becomes more agitated and we question his sunny assessments). The six of us agree we will quickly visit pygmies (no time for the hunt) and the go to the Sangha Bai to observe the wildlife. We agree we will turn back by 11 – hopefully having an hour and a half for observation. We would be back by 12:30 PM and take off by 1 PM for Bombassa. The gorilla group is the worry – no way to get two groups in so either Akos or Jessica will go with Sanya and Laurie – it is sad that they both will not see gorillas. Lunch on the boat – dinner at Bomassa is the plan. The current will help us this time.

Off to sleep – I am plain exhausted and do not care about the spiders – should be fine under the mosquito net ….. And our passports are stamped -- a relief we are no longer "illegals".

From Ouesso to Dzanga-Sangha National Park (Doli Lodge)

We arrive in Ouesso on Tuesday the 14th of October – a pretty small town – earlier than scheduled (the flight does not run on Tuesdays – ours was a make-up … I wonder if maybe delayed on purpose (despite some story that the tire could not be used in a grass field so we had to wait for a new one – which clearly was a lie as the runway is paved – just no lights) to accommodate our fiend “The Man in the Pink Suit”’s schedule. Anyhow we are here. Jessica suggests I will be more comfy on the boat in a light colored t-shirt and shorts (I’m wearing jeans and a dark shirt and it IS hot). By now I have lost all inhibitions so I changed my shirt outside – just “discretely” turning around. I draw the line at changing pants – we all have our limits. I will do so in the bush later ….

Jean-Pierre gives some money to the police to stamp our passports (every step requires a bribe) and we take a taxi to the boat. Even though Jean-Pierre had tripled checked with the boatmen they are not ready – have gone off to get gas. Jean-Pierre gives us the “wait” sign which is a downward hand wave – hard to describe but I expect it will stay with me for a long time – definitely will try it at work :-) -- if I get back – I am probably FAA’s only employee that is longing for the place while on “holiday”. We go for a bush break – only a couple of people around so somehow that seems OK to us. And of course we all carry toilet paper – a necessity as the even the fanciest restaurant does not have any. I go back and change into shorts. Another bribe to the exit police to get our passports stamped again (I have stopped questioning all the passport checks even though we have never left Congo). The boatmen come back (seems like a lot of them) and we get on. A large wooden canoe (more roomy than I thought and amazingly stable). Plastic chairs. Jessica goes off to buy umbrellas for those that do not have them. The boatmen try to take off without her (and Laurie) – and amazingly Jean-Pierre – who hired them. Eventually everything is straightened out and off we go – again providing a spectacle with our umbrellas.

I am sitting at the end near the boatmen. Jessica passes out sandwiches. I am too stressed to swallow so I gave half of mine to the boatmen. They are happy – Jessica is not :-( Off we go some more—it is extremely hot but ignorance of what is ahead is a very helpful narcotic (though by now “the worse the better” is starting to feel more like “the better the worse” – that is if something is smooth something is likely to go wrong soon). Which of course it does – the motor breaks down. Amazingly the boatmen have taken off without a paddle or a spare motor—for an 11 hour boat trip in a crocodile infested river. We are still in cell phone range so there is much screaming and carrying on. We are going against the current so eventually we should float back to port – but of course we have no way of maneuvering. The boatmen manage to get the motor working somewhat (a 40 hp motor to go on a very fast moving river – we are not going THAT far – it is just that the means of getting there is slow) so we make our way back. The guy that I thought was the head boatman and I had given my sandwich to turns out to just be hitching a ride (he was someone who could be helpful to Jean-Pierre and as our means of transport was one of the fastest he wanted to go with us and Jean-Pierre could not refuse him). So he makes us stop so he can get on a boat going the other way. Jean-Pierre has that look of defeat. I am a bit relieved – thinking that maybe we can now start focusing on going home (though there is no flight till Friday I think – but who knows here). We get back to port – and the motor is miraculously fixed. We pick up two spares (one a 15 hp) and some more gas. Jean Pierre moves to my seat to keep an eye on he boatmen and I move forward. Off we go again.

We make our first “bush break” stop about an hour out – where we also pick up a paddle. The people in the village help with the boat – perfectly normal to have a group of people pull up and use your back yard as a toilet. Off we go again – every change in the sound of the motor making my heart skip a beat. And it happens a lot since the boat has to slow down every time another boat goes by. The river is really swollen – a month’s worth of rain. I naively think we have lights – but Jean-Pierre corrects that delusion quickly. He assures me we will be able to see just fine. By now it is windy so the umbrellas (a brilliant move by Jessica) now serve as wind breakers. Starts to get dark – but the moon comes out. I can even read my watch – which I am checking every few minutes. Akos thought we would get to Bombassa (to the WCS run camp) in 5 hours or so – but the current is strong. Jean-Pierre offers a more realistic assessment.

Eventually we do get to Bombassa (the Wildlife Conservation Society -- WCS -- Camp) about 9:30 PM (we had left at 1:20 PM the second time after the motors). 8 hours ….. wow. The boatmen unload the luggage. There is much yelling and screaming. I do not want to part from my book bag – my Blackberry is not working but presuming we get back to Ouesso it is our insurance that we can call for help. I also need my other bag to get my jeans as by now is cold when we move. Quick group meeting – choices are to stay at Bombassa and compromise the chances we can all see the gorillas or press on. We want to press on – but the boatmen want to stay. They unload the luggage. There is much screaming and hand gesturing from a local woman about getting shot at the Central African Republic border. But somehow Jean-Pierre sorts out everything and off we go.

Because the river is swollen there is some concern about the rapids. I am actually scared for the first time. But the moon is bright and the rapids turn out to be a non event. Eat some bread for dinner. Skip the beer – Mark does not. The rest of the evening goes by VERY slowly. Sleep in fits on and off – Mark is fast asleep. Others seem like they are dozing on and off – and of course freezing. Now it is impossible to stop for a bush break so the side of the boat and two umbrellas is the new option. At least we are inventive. Jean Pierre keeps getting asked when we’ll get there. He is getting impatient and gives a long time or says he does not know. It is easier to endure things but I can understand his nervousness.

We make one bush break near the border as the sun starts to rise. Of course it is not clear where the border is – but that’s OK – used to ambiguity by now. Once it is light things are better – see some pretty birds with exotic names I cannot recall. Talk Jessica into doing the drawing for gorilla visits. Claire, Sharon and Bjarne are in group one. Mark, me and Andy are in group two. (We go together but we have to wait a bit till they have their hour). Laurie and Sanya will go with Akos and Jessica the next day. Spirits are lifted as we see the camp (after 17 hours on the boat in the Sangha River) and disembark (after some creative dock building by the camp folks). Hopefully "The Worse he Better" will prove true with the gorilla experience ..... We are in country #4 (or #5 if you count the boat trip into Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) waters :-). We are now officially in the Central African Republic -- illegally as we did not stop to get our passports stamped at the border hut -- Jean Pierre feeling that the guard would be angry if we awoke him ... I cannot believe we are in an unstable African country illegally. Jean-Pierre collects passports. I worry about being stuck here forever ... but put it out of my mind.

The Man in the Pink Suit

It is amazing how in the midst of this self-imposed torture (I have to keep reminding myself we paid a lot of money to do this) things keep happening that just make me laugh. I am sitting right in front of “The Man in the Pink Suit” (oh how I wish I had his photo!). I realize that to him the sight of our group – eleven clearly out of place white people going to some small town in Congo must seem as amusing as his clothes are to us. He is perfectly normal – it is we who are out of place. He smiles nicely and tries to talk to us – but he speaks no English or Spanish. His presence is reassuring – if such a colorful “VIP” is with us surely we will get where we are going. The thought crosses my mind to give him a business card in hopes he gives me his – just in case we need “rescuing”. I have told Carl and Houieda we may need rescuing – and Sharon has advised a close friend of hers of our predicament (using my Blackberry to send an SMS – hers is not working) of our predicament. Her friend is pretty likely to be able to put together a rescue so I relax a bit. Ironic how quickly we adapt to a new “normal” with men in pink suits and rescue plans ….. I want his picture but asking is probably dumb. And I do not give him my business card -- what if he is a terrorist or on some war criminal list? He seems harmless enough ..... but not smart to mess with security clearance items!

The Maya Maya Airport (Again)

Here we are again – it is Tuesday. We have to drag our luggage to the Lebanese restaurant for breakfast – where Jessica also intends to pick up sandwiches for the river trip. Then on to taxis back for another lovely Maya Maya Airport experience (I wore the exact same clothes for that "Ground Hog Day" experience). Spyros says he will make a go no go decision at the airport. And Sharon asks to use my phone as she intends to go home Wednesday if Air France can fly her. Calling does not work – but rather then eating breakfast I find an unprotected wireless network and check the Air France website. Does not allow me to book a ticket for Wednesday. Later Akos finds there are no seats available – so Sharon decides to go which makes me happy. Mark will not waver – but Spyros decides to stay behind. We get back to Maya Maya – at 7 AM. Compared to Monday the Airport is an oasis of tranquility. Make our way trough passport control (why? We are not leaving the country!) with yesterday’s boarding passes. Past bag check (a bit more thorough this time). All the seats are taken (pretty sure some of these people live here ....) but “The Bar” is empty so we commandeer a table. Get told we have to order something – so Andy and Mark do. Jean-Pierre makes it in and says we have to get by the door as boarding will be a mad dash.

We see people positioning themselves by the door – like runners preparing for a race. We do the same thing with Akos in the lead. Miraculously our flight gets called first – and then we see what Jen-Pierre means. You get out by pushing. I wait for someone to push me out (we are packed tight) but somehow the locals won’t push us (no matter what everyone is extremely nice and courteous to us). Claire blocks the door and pushes me (and others) out. Jessica wishes she could video this (I do as well – I am sure if I make it out of here alive I will think this is a dream). We get to the line – not too far back. Akos is near the front and gets most of our group to join him. At this point “The Man in the Pink Suit” arrives. A car with “VIPs” pulls to the side of the plane. This gigantic man – wearing a bright pink suit and matching tie gets out – with a companion in a bright blue suit (and another guy whose attire I cannot recall being mesmerized by the pink suit – exactly the color of my pink brief case – which I wish I could give to the “Man in the Pink Suit”). They take out a gigantic suit case which two people load on (Claire thinks it is filled with gold – like sometimes we think Spyros’ yellow bag must be as he never lets it out of his sight J). The VIPs get on the plane. Then they start letting us peons in. The flight attendant tries to check my carry on – which is about a fourth the size of “The Man on the Pink Suit”’s suitcase. She insists it is too heavy. I refuse to give it up – its contents are my connection to some sort of normalcy. Eventually an Air Congo representative says to let me take it on. The bag fits perfectly fine in the overhead – again another example of someone trying to exert authority just to be cruel. We all get on (to anyone else today’s experience is chaotic – but after yesterday it seems perfectly civilized and efficient). Mark is looking out the window and notices that several people with boarding passes are denied boarding (even though there are plenty of seats). The stairs are pulled away and off we go. Amazing how having a boarding pass is meaningless … anyone anytime can just show up and take your seat if they are important enough or can pay a higher bribe. The corruption is sickening – makes our good Senator Ted Stevens from Alaska look like a Knight in Shining Armor – a model citizen :-).

Who Knows What's Next

Still trying to get to Central African Republic. Having breakfast at the "one mouse" Lebanese Restaurant. Will probably be stuck in Brazzaville a while!

The Maya Maya Airport

I think today we hit a new low. Spent what seemed like forever – but was probably about 8 hours at Brazzaville’s airport. Should have known something would be amiss when Jean-Pierre – the local “guide” came by at 6 AM to collect passports and check us in. So that we could go “later”. When we arrived the airport was a total zoo. No sign of Jean-Pierre – but plenty of vendors trying to sell us trinkets. We “cowered” under a tree outside. Then Akos had us move inside only to go back outside because of the “stifling” heat. Our peaceful corner soon became another zoo due to the arrival of a sports team from Cameroon. Soccer (football) I think – based on the size of the athletes and the number of players. Soon enough Jean-Pierre came with our passports and boarding passes and then the “fun” started.

We had to push our way through passport control – Akos and Jessica fighting to keep the group together somehow. Made it past first passport check. Fought our way through the crowd to “baggage check” – which was a cursory look at best. After which we entered the “waiting lounge” – which consisted of a few rows of chairs and “the bar”. And of course what was termed by many the most disgusting toilet they had ever seen (which is something, keeping in mind Laurie has been to all but about half a dozen countries in the world). Sanya said she had seen worse – and to be honest it really was not any dirtier than a the toilet in Mark and Mike Hecht’s apartment (which I’m pretty certain was not cleaned in two years). We were expecting to leave soon – and at least one flight boarded in what seemed like a chaotic fashion at the time. More and more people pored in and the room kept getting hotter and hotter. After a flight boarded Jean-Pierre had us move closer to the door. One of the doors was opened so there was a bit of air. I sat down on he luggage which helped and Sanya and Laurie somehow got seats. Mark started drinking beer – bringing to mind my worse travel experience – the train station at Bratislava – where Mark insisted on going on the day after Christmas in 2004 – only to be trapped in a snow storm – not understanding anything. Mark started drinking with a new “buddy” who in the end managed to communicate enough to get us to follow a blind set of moves (carrying then four-year old Anthony) that took us through a bus filled with soldiers, a snow covered field (where the soldiers relieved themselves), a mystery train and finally back to our very nice hotel room in Vienna – which any sensible person would never have left.

A few more hours passed and Akos seemed to think there was a broken part n our aircraft. But of course there were no announcements. Jean-Pierre went to “get” information but no one was talking. It seemed like things could not get any worse (I do not recall ever being hotter). And then of course things DID get worse. An extremely nasty looking policeman actually closed the door. Women started screaming at him – there wee a lot of babies and small children. He seemed to take uncanny pleasure on closing the door – you could see it in his face – he was doing this because he could not for any security reason. At this point Sharon thought we would die – the temperature was rising fast and surely someone would pass out. Got some water and eventually “Mr. Mean” opened the door. More and more time passed. We moved to the “bar” after some flights boarded. We may have had some food – I don’t remember—by this point I was having a very hard time eating. The Maya Maya Airport made me “long” for the African Train. We ask Akos to check into Air France flights out on Monday night – and he says he cannot as they have closed. I take my Blackberry and call Delta – ask for Air France’s number and find out that there are no flights. I take impish delight in doing what Akos said was not possible to do – which is childish but at this time my trust in Akos is severely diminished.

Akos said we would wait till 3 PM and then go back to the hotel (we had entered the room around 8:30 AM). 3 PM comes and no Jean-Pierre. A bit more time passes and then an announcement that the flight would not go – they would try again the next day. Quickly made our way out where there was some air – and into taxis and back to the Saphir Hotel in “beautiful” Brazzaville. The air conditioning in the hotel was heavenly – at this point just being away from the domestic waiting lounge at the Maya Maya airport was enough. I went back to the room and cried and told Mark I was not getting out of that bed until Friday.

Akos called a 7 PM group meeting. I was calm enough by then to attend – having given up my plan to stay in bed until Friday. By now doing the trek to the Central African Republic was a “Hail Mary” pass. It would only work if the flight was in the air by 11 AM – which would put us on the boat to the Doli Lodge (in Central African Republic) by 1 PM – hopefully an 11 hour boat trip would get us to Doli (after a dinner stop in Bomassa) by 1:30 AM. A quick sleep – and two groups of three could see gorillas (only three people at a time allowed to observe the gorillas – for an hour) on Wednesday while the rest saw Pygmies and went to the Platform to see elephants etc.; on Thursday we would get an early start allowing the remainder of the group to see gorillas and the Wednesday gorilla people to see Pygmies and go to the Platform. We would then leave Thu afternoon – sleep at Bomassa and back to Ouesso by Friday morning to catch the flight back to Brazzaville and then the Air France flight home Friday evening. No room for error on this schedule – in a region of the world where things have seldom worked to date. No guarantees that we would be back for the Friday flight – so Akos gave us the choice of staying behind. Possibly could go to the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) across the Congo River. Or maybe even catch the Wednesday flight “Out of Africa”. But he encouraged everyone to go ….. I wanted to drop out at this point – the thought of being caught even deeper in Africa being horrifying. Spyros is going on to Australia and several more months of travel so he really cannot afford to miss the Friday flight – he vacillated. And Sharon wants out – which will make things even more difficult as she is a great source of comfort to me. By now we are clinging to each other so loosing any one will be hard. I begged Mark to drop out – but he insists that there are such things as gorillas and pygmies deep in the Central African Republic and he intends to see them. For the first time I wish I was alone so I could turn around – I am extremely worried about Mark and cannot just abandon him. But I will try again to persuade him in the morning …. In typical Brazzaville style the Restaurant we were going to has been commandeered by some oil people – so we go back to the Lebanese restaurant ….

Cooling Our Heels in Brazzaville

Another day in “beautiful” Brazzaville. Skipped breakfast again – I think part of my issue is eating more than usual. Just eating a piece of bread or a croissant seems to be working better :-) And getting me closer to my "ideal weight" :-)

Got on a relatively nice boat and went down the Congo. Made a “bush break” stop at some island – saw a temporary fishing village. Some of the folks in our group have no respect about pictures and just photograph people at will – which really drives me nuts. I do not think I am made for group travel – the same people that a week or two ago were interesting and colorful are driving me nuts now. I think this is really a case of it’s not them – it is me.

Stopped at an island on the Congo that seemed to have a little Hotel. Got there pretty early (courtesy of Akos wanting the best light for photography – there really was no need to take off at 7:30 AM – unfortunately since Jessica was sick last night she could not rein him in :-)). They were very nice – set up beach chairs and cushions on the swings for us. I went and sat by the beach to read in peace – the conversation driving me bunkers (we know everyone has been lots of places – no need to bring it up constantly – or to have 3 or 4 people repeat the name of a bird – like King Fisher ….. Our boat took off at some point which made me a bit nervous. They were preparing a canoe with chairs so I thought maybe that was the replacement. But eventually Jean-Pierre our local guide awoke from his nap – and the boat came back.

The staff made us a very nice lunch – I had sweet plantains, rice and French fries – which seems to agree with my stomach. Being intimidate by Akos into eating greens and fruits was a really dumb idea – a lot easier to overcome now that I have gotten to know him a bit and see that he is simply human like the rest of us. No wiser or dumber – just trying his best to run a business.

On the way back “wondered” into the Democratic Republic of Congo (former Zaire) by boat – so if we make it into Central African Republic (which at this point I do not take as a given) we will have made it into 5 countries (all new for us) – just not the originally planned 5 :-). Akos and Jessica let everyone know what the rest of the program will be like – but I was at the beach. Mark heard most of it and I got a synopsis from Jessica. We have to repack and just take a few things for Mon-Fri – and leave most of our stuff at the hotel. This should facilitate transfers/lost luggage. Have left enough stuff behind that I think it is doable – it just sounds like the travelling will be tough …. But just 4 more nights … I cannot wait to be on that plane to France .. this has been interesting but way too long. I really miss my baby Sydney and my house.

One African Expedition Away from My Ideal Weight

Today was sort of a tough day. Last night went to a "one mouse" Lebanese Restaurant (that’s all we saw, which I guess is better than some of the rats spotted at the “resort” in Sao Tome). Had horrible cramps and an upset stomach. Also a sore throat and my sneezing and runny nose were back. Found out our airline had gone belly up so we did not fly in the morning. But “not to worry” – Jean Pierre has secured tickets on an airline that flies Monday. This means we get back on Friday just before our flight to Paris – which makes me extremely nervous. Akos swears up and down that we have tickets on Friday and it should be no problem. But Akos’ version of the truth is a bit African – certainly fluid.

This morning skipped breakfast and just had Mark bring me a piece of bread. We had an activity at 9 AM – went for a ride to see the rapids. Amazing that we can see the Democratic Republic of Congo (former Zaire) but can’t go there. The place is a basket case. Had to climb through some rocks and I had a terrible time – Jean Pierre was very nice and helped me. I just don’t do rocks well :-(

Driving through the town is something else. So much dirt and trash. People look well fed – there is no horrid poverty and begging like you see in India – just dirt and trash – as if people do not care. This being “one of Africa’s least visited countries” – or so Akos claims – people either ignore us or look at us with curiosity.

Ate lunch at the hotel – just a bit of rice and a couple of fried bananas. Sharon is also sick. I took Cipro – she took lomatril. Hopefully we will get better. At lunch we talked about what should be on Akos and Jessica’s screening questionnaires for travelers. Something like “someone screams “bug” – do you a) take its picture, b) pick it up or c) squash it”. And “someone sees a mouse at dinner – do you a) ignore it, b) point out its species, or c) scream; extra points if you get its picture for later identification”. I guess I knew this would be rough – but I never envisioned how rough – the African train seems like a bad nightmare. And who knows what’s in store in the jungle!

Got some Benadryl from Jessica and I was out for the afternoon. Sleeping was good – don’t feel 100% but certainly better. Mark went to the handicraft market and then to the regular local market. He wondered around by himself and said people once again ignored him – except for the kids – one little boy came out to shake his hand. Apparently everyone else was uncomfortable so they left – and Mark was the last one back. Went to a local restaurant tonight – did not see any mice. But then again Jessica is now sick – allergies, headache, throwing up. And she is the best mouse spotter!

Tomorrow we are doing a 7:30 departure for an outing on the Congo River. Hope it is not too rough. Akos said we’d be back by 2 – which by Akos time may mean 3 or 4. Probably our last “easy” day …….