Visiting the Gorillas (aka death march in the jungle)

We get our rooms at Doli Lodge (not quite the stunning accommodation in Akos’ brochure – but it has a bathroom with hot water – which turns out to be a luxury – as only two rooms have hot water). Take about 15-20 minutes for breakfast (skip the shower – sure the gorillas won’t mind). Jean-Pierre tells me there is 100% chance of seeing the gorillas. I actually believe him.

The plan is the six gorilla trekkers will do the gorilla experience and meet the rest of the group (which is going on the Pygmy Hunt (where the pygmies hunt – not to hunt pygmies) at the Observation Platform -- Dzangha Bai: a huge opening in the forest, with saline soils where wildlife hangs out. That is where we will have a late lunch.

I am excited as we set out to see gorillas. Ride over rough roads for an hour and a half – Bjarne, Sharon and Claire take off and Andy, Mark and I hang out in the “satellite camp” until 11. I read the warnings – don’t do this unless you can out run an elephant or a buffalo. I doubt any one can outrun elephants and buffalo – and I am too tired to care. We are not travelling anywhere today – and I am no longer having trouble being in the present. I just cannot deal with tomorrow anymore. I pray all the time – I seriously doubt we will get out of here without some accident where someone is badly hurt or worse. By now I am determined to see gorillas – whatever it takes.

Our guide comes and off we go. I am first in line – Mark yells at me to stay with the guide. It is hard (he moves pretty fast) but doable as the ground is pretty flat and sandy. Ironically Mark is having a hard time keeping up – the guide is flying. I expect an hour and a half hike – so we should see Bjarne, Sharon and Claire by 11:45 AM. We go on and on – can’t even stop for a drink. Lots of water and mud to walk through. At about 12:15 PM see some western woman coming back with a guide. Keep walking and walking and walking. Our guide seems lost. Finally come across some other folks and we sit in the forest. Cannot communicate but they get across that we are waiting our turn and will get to see the gorillas at 1 PM (supposedly you cannot visit the gorillas after 2 PM – though I’m sure they are not wearing watches). We are attacked by the sting less bees – which are attracted to sweat. Really obnoxious as they like the salt and try to get into my eyes – which messes my contact. Mark looks positively awful – can hardly breathe and is really grouchy and yells at me. I am very worried about him. Finally we get to move to the gorillas

Mark is the first to spot two young gorillas. They are awesome but we only see their rear ends. I cannot believe this – but it seems par for the course for this trip. We see the other group. They tell us the gorillas kept moving and they had poor sightings (in terms of photos). They take off and we go in. Now we see gorillas!!! These guys are awesome. I squat on the ground to observe them. Scratching because of the bugs. The big silver back seems to be looking at me – and he mimics my movements I think. These guys are awesome – great sightings. Definitely the worse the better.

But of course “this is Africa”. So the guides decide to get closer and look and look for more. Andy gets some good video of a gorilla eating. He is one messy eater :-). I get slightly concerned – we are inside the 7 foot distance rule. But the gorillas are relaxed and this is awesome. Except when it isn’t. Biting ants and sting less bees are driving me nuts. Two o’clock comes and goes – the guides show no sign of ending this. Continue to walk and spot some more guys. Finally at 2:30 PM we all have had plenty of gorilla time and ask to go back. We hike back an hour and a half – get to the satellite camp by 4 PM and then back to Doli Lodge at 5:30 PM. I am worried about Mark – the hike seems to be doing him in. It really is feeling masochistic – I loved the gorillas but a 5 hour hike after a night in a canoe is probably a bit much. But we do not have a choice – timing will not work otherwise. Andy and I also note that we do not see any way to do two groups the next day and take off in time to get to Bomassa at a reasonable hour so we can rest and go on to Ouesso (for the all important flight back to Brazzaville – if we miss it the next one is Monday and then we will need new Air France flights – and Mark and I will have to get new tickets to the U.S. because we are on frequent miles tickets and the policy is if you miss a flight you are out of luck).

When we get back to Doli run into Sharon – who is locked out of her room. Find out that Bjarne passed out from dehydration. Like me and Andy, she is nervous about the plans for the next day. And she is concerned someone will get seriously hurt or killed (as am I). And of course we have had no food. We agree to try to talk to Akos and point out this is no longer even remotely fun. I take a shower and then go to the dining room. Claire, Bjarne, Andy and Sharon have ordered some food. I am not hungry but they talk me into ordering some food for me and Mark (no sign of the Sangha Bai group).

Mark joins us – and the other group returns (they worried about us – not realizing how long the gorilla hike really is). Offer Sharon the chance to take a hot shower in our room – which she clearly needs – we are all in sad shape. I no longer feel annoyed by the group – trying to survive the boat has made us closer (and me kinder).

We try to talk to Akos and Jessica about the timing, lack of food, insane schedule and the folks with medical issues (I am really worried about Mark – who brought no extra blood pressure medicine – I could kill him) Akos and Jessica do not seem to be listening at all – so we keep trying. Sharon must have talked to Akos separately because he does come back and we hold a meeting and he seems more sensible (particularly as the group becomes more agitated and we question his sunny assessments). The six of us agree we will quickly visit pygmies (no time for the hunt) and the go to the Sangha Bai to observe the wildlife. We agree we will turn back by 11 – hopefully having an hour and a half for observation. We would be back by 12:30 PM and take off by 1 PM for Bombassa. The gorilla group is the worry – no way to get two groups in so either Akos or Jessica will go with Sanya and Laurie – it is sad that they both will not see gorillas. Lunch on the boat – dinner at Bomassa is the plan. The current will help us this time.

Off to sleep – I am plain exhausted and do not care about the spiders – should be fine under the mosquito net ….. And our passports are stamped -- a relief we are no longer "illegals".